Visiting and learning at the ''Biennale de Photo du Mali''

 Hôtel Tamana, Hippodrome, Bamako

In novembre 25th 2019 I arrived to Bamako to represent the Galerie Zeinart and the French Institut of Mauritania at the Bamako Encounters which is the principal event dedicated to contemporary photography and new imagery in Africa
 The Biennale was celebrating its 25th anniversary and for the first time in its history organized by Malians, the Ministry of Culture of Mali. The Institut Français becoming a partner and not the main organizer.

Musée National du Mali, permanent collection - Textiles

Musée National du Mali, permanent collection - Bamanan puppets

 As I arrived ahead of the opening I had the time to visit the places we're the different events would take place. The Museum was a beautiful discovery as it sits in a middle of a green Park, Bamako beeing heavily polluted and hot it was a wonderful place to chill out. 

Musée National du Mali, permanent collection - traditional masks and sculpture

 The Restaurant was also a nice finding and as the Biennale opened you could see and meet all the artistes, curators and visitors. And a beautiful view into the green area.

Restaurant African Grill Musée Nationale du Mali

Leisurely and as I had to get used to the heat, even if I live in a very hot country in the Sahara we have mild winters due to the proximity of the capital Nouakchott to the sea and temperatures at night time can go down to 11ºC not the case in Bamako where temperatures where over 40ºC everyday and going down at night to 27ºC not that easy when you want to move all day and see everything.

Marché Artisanale et M.Kader Sylla

And of course I visited the Marché Artisanale and met M.Sylla in the jewelers area. M.Sylla a psychotherapist lived most of his life in Paris and comes back for a three month holiday every year now he's retired. He took me around the market and as he knew everybody and due to his Parisian background we did it very quickly so that I could move on to the INA.

INA - Institut National des Arts de Bamako. Professeur Ben Galy, teaches drums, balafon and musical theory.

The INA is the National Institute of Arts situated just by the side of the Marché Artisanale.
When this school was opened in 1933 it was called Ècole d'Artisanat Soudanais (Sudanese School of handcrafts) after the Independence in 1963 under the presidency of Mobidou Keita, the School changed name and was made bigger to accommodate  Visual Arts, Dramatic performing arts, Music and social-cultural activities.
Today it teaches around 600 hundred students from all over the country that got through the exam to get in. There are no tuition fees and students are given uniforms.

Saveurs du Patio, restaurant de l'Institut Français du Mali

One of the places I had to visit was the Institut Français du Mali. Here again a nice restaurant and new faces that would become familiar in the few next days. On the left in the sketch Cheikh Diallo, malian designer and scenographer for the Bamako Biennale with architect Cheikh Ouedraogo from Burkina Faso, on the other table Co- Curator Astrid Lepoultier.

John Fleetwood and Amy Daniels putting up the work of Alexia Webster

 The Institut Français was to hold an exhibition honouring South Africans photographers, David Goldblatt, Alexia Webster, Jabulani Dhlamini, Mauro Vombe and Pierre Crocquet.
As I walked in to the space of the gallery of the IFM, curator John Fleetwood and coordinator Amy Daniels where putting up the work of AlexiaWebster - Street Studios shot in different locations around the world where she sets up street studios and invites passers-by to a dialogue and a photo. A small curtain hide the entrance to the cinema and small children kept coming in and out.

Hotel Tamana night time group of photographers exhibiting at the Hotel curated by Fatoumata Diabaté

The garden of Taxi Bamako

Penda Mobido Keita, last details and coaching for the hostesses of the Encounters Galerie Medina

Galerie Medina first floor Inside the Isma N'Diaye Jazz collection

Its interesting to see and visit places just before they're ready to open.
This morning at Galerie Medina Penda Mobido Keita, that works at the gallery was given directions to the hostesses that be spread around town in all the places where the Biennale is taking place. Next day the installation Inside the Isma N'Diaye Jazz Collection was installed and places where getting ready for the big opening. More than 15 venues across the capital are operating as exhibition spaces, including the Palais de la Culture Amadou Hampaté Ba, Musée National du Mali, and Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers Multimédia Balla Fasseké Kouyaté.

Galerie Medina, Bamako

Night time at Gallery Medina, opening and Brass Band with on your right Mama Sissoko - super Biton Ségou.
Biton was the name of the king of the Bamana one of the ethnic groups of West Africa which capital was in Ségou.

unfinished portrait of Igo Diarra

Opened by Igo Lassana Diarra  Galerie Medina is a great spacious gallery in the hearth of Bamako, center for culture with a media library.
He is also the person in charge of the Biennale so finding and talking to him was not that easy in and around the opening days.
A man of Culture he's part of a new generation of African Culturel Operators proactively promoting the arts and culture in Mali, Africa, and beyond.








Its over 40ºC and we go from venue to venue for the openings

Opening Palais de la Culture Amadou Hampaté Ba with the performance of the dancers of Kettly Noel

Palais de la Culture,  les Marionettes

Invisible Borders at the Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers MultimédiasBalla Fasséké Kouyaté

Memorial Modibo Keita, Buhlebezwe Siwani- Ama Hubo (2018) 2 channel vidéo

Memorial Modibo Keita, Eric Gyamfi, fixing shadows, Julius and I (2018-2019) photo and sound installation

 Forums were given a prominent place during the opening week of the Biennale and they reunited, artistes, curators and people from a the art world. Great places to sketch and listen to the discussions, stimulating and opening doors.

Raw Material with Marie-Helene Pereira, Lionel Manga and Jihan El tahri

Film under construction 'L'école du caméléon' by Karima Boudou, Renée Akiteleke Mboya et Aude Christel Mgba

Afroconciencia

Talk Talk Talk

Talk Talk Talk

Savvy Contemporary, Exclamation, prise!  Sur le bruit des images

Photography and collectives

The river Niger that runs across the city

Tracing the circuit of paper in medieval times

Anne Regourd looking for watermarks on old manuscripts at the IMRS

I met Anne Regourd for the first time at the IMRS (Institute Mauritanien de recherche scientifique) I had phoned her and asked if I could come around and sketch her while she worked and surprising she said yes.

I discovered she was looking for watermarks and others marks on manuscripts to be able to identify the origin from the paper and which paths it took to arrive around the world in this case Africa.

Its like an approach to global history through the paper trade.

I learned that the most important areas of paper manufacturing in Medieval times were Spain and Italy. But that was  hundreds of years later. China invented paper as we know it in AD 105 learn about the story of paper  here.

I also discovered the beautiful collection of manuscripts and one of its research professor Taleb Ahmed from Ouadane.

Manuscripts du IMRS, Nouakchott

Summer holidays in brown paper

Barbara Walker at Turner Contemporary

 

Saylor's Church, Ramsgate

Tate Britain

Broadstairs

Gentle Monster eye wear shop, London

Mariana in Alentejo

Doca Pesca Portimão

Leyali El Medh 2019 plus bonus sketches

photographe

The best year of the Festival of El Medh (songs of praise for the prophet). The Vilage de la Biodiversité was full every night. The public, as every year, a mix of all the components and strata from this mixed country and even the minister of Culture showed up for the first time in the 6 years the Festival has been going on.

This Festival organized by Teranim an NGO that tries by all means to preserve the culture of the Haratines (former slaves and tributaries) has a lot of problems trying to get funding as some see them as putting ahead the ancient slaves and others are afraid they're doing some kind of proselytism.

public

Teranim really deserves to be know and hopefully soon they will get some big sponsors as every year the Festival runs thanks to the group of volunteers, the energy of its Director Mohamed Ali Bilal and a few donations.

The Meddahas

A writing by a journalist really sums up what happens in the Park during the Festival :

 ''The space of Biodiversity becomes during the nights of the Festival Leyali El medh an outlet where are canalized the frustrations of the day, those of the year in a momentum of joy that produces a collective therapy and a eternal moment of human fraternity.''

my drum

Teranim gave me this beautiful drum to thank me for my presence and help, unfortunately when I'm in stage I get completely hopeless and I didn't manage to say thank you.

And now for the bonus images from Leyali El Medh from other years that I had not posted, from the songs of praise in the neighborhoods and others. Starting with a drawing done at the Village de la Biodiversité with a troupe of women doing Bendja.

Bendja ,Village de la Biodiversité

Meddah

Meeting Teranim and Meddahas

Meeting at Village de la Biodiversité

Meeting

Songs of Praise in the neighborhoods

dancing

El Medh message of peace

Public and Meddahas

Public and Meddahas

Arafat

Village de la Biodiversité